Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 93: Advances in Water Resources and Exploration (FALL 2019), pp. 119-124 (6 pages) In order to improve the numerical analysis ability of long period wave ...
I’ve been forecasting waves along the Central Coast since 1991, but the recent swell event marked the longest period and wavelengths I’ve ever observed. The waves were immense and powerful, breaking ...
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